Wednesday, 19 June 2013


I was at almscliff again.
I tried flying arete again.
I fell off the top again.
Since I started climbing I have always ended up with projects. I started climbing at Huddersfield wall. Its crap but the bouldering wall had its little quirks. They also had a circuit board at a good angle which was fun.
I used to climb on the ropes mainly but I always had projects on the boulder wall. My first was to climb the corner by the door this became climb it with feat features only, then features only then eliminating holds. When I moved to climbing outdoors. I was very much a trad climber with an onsight only focus. this meant I did not have projects however I did progress fast through the grades to VS. My bouldering was poor and I did not really develop fast. I was trad climbing moves as hard as I was bouldering. However I was trying things and holmfirth became the home of me falling off. Projects came and eventually they have gone form impossible to feeling possible.
Having a goal that fells hard is good. Having a project that fells impossible is also good but for me not as good as achievable ones.
I have had projects that have lasted years (I have only been climbing 4 years). Thelongest was probably upside down arete. I most of spent 20 sessions on this a year for 3 years before I eventually did it. I have not repeated it.
I like projects I like the feeling of joy the development. The out of reach goal that you are tickling just need to find a bit more reach.
Flying arete is a project at the moment which is strange as when I first tried it I thought that would be fun to do quick while frustrated by pebble wall. 9 months later I am still trying it.
I started barely able to pull on to the problem to at chirstmas falling off the top out 6 times in a session.
Sunday I had lost a bit of muscle memory but I still got to the top move and fell off. The goal is achievable I just need to get weight over my left knee and I will tick the problem but its now just a frustration.
Also a 7A eliminate at Holmfirth is another project. It felt deperate when I first thought of trying it 2 years ago. I tried it with Proff Tom this year and we unlocked the sequence in a session. Neither of us got it that session. Tom got it next session. It is a hard 7A according to him. 7A was a finger in the air goal for the year I have done 6C before at holmfirth but knowhere else. So I want to tick more 6C's and a 7A is all I wanted to achieve bouldering wise this year.
The goal is there I just need to reach a bit further.
I know its grade chasing. I don't care. I want to do flying arete because I love the moves. I want to do this Eliminate for the grade. I want to climb the grade.
Until I latch the top hold on both they will continue to be a frustration. These both originally were impossible targets but now I feel like they achievable just frustrating until I get the tick. Until then I will keep coming back with this in my head.
I was at almscliff again.
I tried flying arete again.
I fell off the top again.

Friday, 14 June 2013

I felt like writing

I am starting this blog in the same way as many others.
I have not blogged in a while. The main reason Blogger was blocked at work ...
So recently I have been out and about a bit more.
I had my first trip to Dinas Cromlech. My goals were ambitious. I wanted to go cenotaph corner, cemetary gates and left wall in a day on my first visit. All classics and all at the top end of my trad ability.
I got there and we warmed up firing out cemetary gates no problem (partners lead). My lead Cenotaph corner looked wet and had a group on and a que was building. We decided to get out of the way and we did noahs warning as a multipitch which was another awesome route.
With the cromlech very busy and wet in places we sacked it and decided to go find james who was bouldering.
Next up we went to the slate as the grochan was wet and busy plus I love slate. I lead looning the tube it felt E1 5b to me so I will take that grade for it. Pretty happy with the lead as I felt confortable in an unconfortable situation.
I also had a day at LPT where I dropped the last move of under the broadwalk again ...
Other that that I have been repeating several HVS and E1s with no problem and generally climbing reasonably well.
Last weekend I was meant to head to spain for a riglos trip but the weather was not on our side so we stayed in the UK. I used this as an excuse to check out Beeston Tor a great crag but too far for a day trip? I lead the crux pitch of the Thorn. Amazing move on very steep ground with rock eating gear. I love limestone.
Sadly my cat Ceefa had to be put down which has effected my pretty badly. I only had him a few months and he was only 9 months old his sister was also hit by a car and is currently healing slowly.
Here is a picture of my cat take the day he was put down.
Here is a picture of me and him months before.
My main issue now is I do not feel I am improving. I am stating to stagnate.
My bouldering is suffereing from my route climbing and my sport climbing is suffering for my trad focus.
I think I am trying to do too much.
I have not been injured in a long time now which has been my main reason/excuse for a lack of improvement. I think I need to really put more effort into another style of climbing.
I have been trying to climb at new crags. It forces you to grab new ticks and try different things. Holmfirth is always there but as I am now nearing completion of my goals I have nothing to achieve. Its nice training and gives a good work out but new ticks help my psyche.
So this blog was a bit pointless. I am just writing down the thoughts I had in my head. But I wrote it as I felt like writing. I wanted to have this to read. I have many things good and bad going on in my life so. I am using this to focus.
The question is what do I want to achieve? This year I knew I wanted to move back to trad climbing. This means a redevelopment of my mind. Sports climbing is hard but the mental side is not there for me I take lobs for fun on sports routes. Trad I like bould routes as they are easy ticks. Its a battle of the mind not the body. The training the mind takes time I have a history of deck outs which convinced me to a year of sport. I do not know what I want to focus on next year.
Maybe I should just go adventurous? Different wild venues not neccesarily climbing at my limit just wild situations.
See cliffs - pembroke, gogarth, Lundy?
Different places - Isle of man, Fairhead, ireland bouldering?
This may be the way to go?
Sorry if you read all this. I wrote it because I felt like writing not to say something.