Sunday, 21 April 2013

whats happened since spain?

Not a lot really. 

I have been resting and taking it easy.

Got a new 6C and did some highballs.
Rabbit Paw Wall
Crescent Arete - Finally
I tried the Horn

I went to LPT and tried a 7a poorly most people think its 7a+ on UKC
Holmfirth today hopefully get some progress on the 7A 

Friday, 19 April 2013

What happened in spain

So i have not blogged since spain because I have been lazy simply. 

So Spain was intense I needed some time to recover (and get fat again). 
I flew out on a friday knowing I had nine days and a large list of targets I had kept close to my chest. 

My goals for the week were
7b
At least 2 routes 7a or harder try to flash/onsight 7a
A decent tufa wrestling battle
Onsight 6c
A mulitpitch
Try onsight all routes in 6's range and then ditch if I fail or don't get first onsight

I had a route call jam session recommended as a 7b project.

We arrived at the apartment late friday night after a beer I went to bed and slept reasonably. 

Next morning we set off to Tres Ponts. There were a few routes there I was keen to try but not sure about them till I saw them. 
I warmed up flailing my way up a 6a+ onsight I was feeling pretty disheartened by the chains. Thankfully Nik lead it and confirmed it was completely nails for 6a+ 
Next I tried to onsight a 7a it did not go well. The start was the crux and it was nails for me I did not feel I had the finger strength for it so I binned it. Next i tried a 7a slab again onsight and blew the crux. I pulled past one hard sharp move and then flashed the rest going bolt to bolt. 
I decided to strip it as I was shredding skin on it not what you need on the first day.  I tried the move again on top rope. It felt doable but very thin and sharp. I ended the day onsighting a 6b that felt a lot easier than the 6a I had tried.
Day two was wet so we checked out a crag that looked good but not the best (in England there would have been line of people trying to climb there in spain it was fairly average). I found a dry looking line and gave it a burn. The route was a very bouldery 7a+ I could not do a powerful move in the middle of the wall and a top mantle. I binned it after a few tries it was wet anyway. Next up I tried to onsight a 6c I blew the crux move got it second try then flashed the rest. Got it second go :) Ended the day trying a thin wall climb 7a. Blew the onsight and got lost fun to try.
Day three we went to the amazing Bruixes wall at Terredets. Called the best crag in the universe by some on UKC. Jam session was here. I thought sod it and tried it onsight to warm up (the easy routes were wet) I got to the forth bolt barely breathing out of my arse getting lost. then dogged my way up another two bolts taking some nice lead falls. Came down. The route is 30m ish and the moves just keep on coming. Second time I tried it on top rope. I made it all the way to the top pulling on draws. Great progress. 
Third time up I did all the moves and made some links. Happy with my progress I called it a day feeling well and truely worked.
Day 4 We decided to have an easy day and check out collegats. I first climbed the worlds hardest 5+ which had a hard 6A+ (hard V3) start. Next I did a 6a that felt hard. I guess I was knackered and potted about the rest of the day.
Day 5 Back to Tres Ponts. I warmed up trying to onsight a 7a fell at the crux. dogged my way to the top and worked a sequence. RP1 stupid mistake lack of confidence RP2 stupid mistake RP3 what the fuck was I doing? RP4 tick :)
Next I got back on the 7a slab still stuck on the same move played about on it twice eventually found an alternate sequence that worked for me but my skin was almost through.
Ended the day onsighting another nails 6a+ gets 6b on UKC
Day 6 back to bruixes. Dogged Jam sesion to set the draws then had 6 red point attempts all different the closest I came I dropped it due to numb fingers.
Day 7 Tres Points tried the 7a from the first day again but still did not feel strong enough for it and could not work out a way round it. Tried the slab 7a again but tips were almost through. So sacked it and had a rest day
Day8 Bruixes. 
My ticklist was a little crap at this point I had a 7a in a day but nothing else significant. Today was all important. I put on my town shirt as I had previously had a good day when I wore it to malham.
I went for it to warm up I powered out at bolt four but refined my sequence bolt to bolt to the top with out taking a fall.
The sun was coming round and I wanted to go before the crag warmed up. so I went early and I crushed it. Everything went great even though my fingers were numb from not warming up properly. Boom for 7b!
I got down and sasha diguilian arrived at the crag and wow! Any nice day belaying and liying in the sun followed.
Day9 Tres ponts. I warmed up ticking the 7a slab and decided to have an easy day from there. 

So thats my week here are some pictures