Sunday, 17 February 2013

yesterday was a day I was gutted the sun went down ...

Yesterday I went for a trip to the slate.
I love the slate I mean really love the slate. Dirty run out slabs! Awesome!
Again I wanted to do a route but only mentioned it without being serious. I wanted to do Red and yellow E1 5a. Bold as! Relatively easy climbing but route finding is hard and there is no gear.
 
Slate from my house is a long day out. I set off at a little after 8 and got to crag at after 11 after some searching for gwen on the outskirts of Bangor.
 
It was worth it for a perfect day on great rock.
 
I convince Alex we should warm up on seamstress and seams the same.
As I had lead seams the same before and Alex had lead seamstress I lead seamstress and he lead seams the same.
Both routes went without a hitch.
Seams the same was Bex's first E1 second
 
Next up I tried a steep juggy 6a+ opposite. It was fine until the last move. After some route finding I went out left up on good holds.
 
I then managed to convince Alex to let me lead Red and yellow next even though it was his turn.
We walked down to the beautiful rainbow slab ... wow. What a place.
After some looking from the base I worked out roughly where I was going to go. I then set off straight forward climbing for 5m to a tiny spike which I placed a micro wire. I then hit the meat of the route. I head out right following small positive holds. At about 15m I was stood on a ledge with a few nerves I tried to work out where the line went next. I set off but I had a case of elvis so reversed to the ledge I had a word with myself and stood there for a while.
I then set off up and left on tiny feet to a good hold another 5m I got to what would turn out to be the hardest move for me.
The move involved a mantel type move to get my foot really high on a good edge rock into it and reach for a high good hold. I committed and the rope got in the way of my foot so I ended up stood on the rope. I could feel the panic coming on ... I took a breath, readjusted and took another deep breath.
I then continued more easily to a good ledge and bomber gear.
From there I climbed more easily to the top what a route and what a great tick for my first E grade of the year.
 
The sun was setting and I had a long drive so reluctantly we called it a day. It was one of those days you are gutted the sunset.
 
We celebrated an amazing day out with a curry in bangor before the long drive home.
 
I just realised this is my first blog of the year. Its not that I have not done anything. Its been a really busy. Yesterday was my 7th day at out on rock of the year. Which with the mixed weather is pretty amazing.
 
Other good stuff I have done is a week end at port ysgo boulder. Its an amazing pebble beach with some large boulders to climb on.
I also had an amazing day at baslow with some awesome ticks

I even finished some of my projects at froggatt and Holmfirth.

It has been an awesome year so far. Only a few weeks until Spain time to really train (except work are sending me to china again for a week).