Monday, 10 September 2012

First E1 onsight of the year, well sort of

Its strange how things change.
When I first started climbing outdoors I was convinced to solo a VD and S as my first climbs. That feeling of freedom was amazing I was in perfect control. I nailed the VD with no problem and whimpered my way up the S.
Next up I tried to lead a HS. I fell above gear and came very close to decking out (about a foot off the ground). I then nailed the route straight away getting back on.
Back then I looked at people climbing VS like they were nothing with awe. I quickly progressed and worked my way through the grades and soloing as I went. It just seemed natural to solo routes it was amazing.
I had a few falls where I hit the ground.
 
September 2009 was my first proper climbing trip. I spent a few days in very hot weather climbing sport and pushing my grade that trip I lead a 5+ it felt about 6a. I was ecstatic. I remember the first day I saw a guy fire out a 6c roof like it was nothing. Again I was in awe.
 
I was shocked how people could climb so well.
I was still under the impression it was only absolute beasts who climbed these huge grades like E1 and 7a. I will never get to be able to climb grades like that.
 
As time went on I met new mates. Two stick out more than others. Haydn and nick (Timmy). These were regular guys who hardly ever turn up at the wall and just burn me off when they do.
 
I started going out to the crags with these guys and watch them comfortably climb HVS even as a warm up. These were regular guys they did not train they were climbing hard with out any effort.
 
It got me psyched. Time went on I progressed further I then went to frogatt. Those who have read my blogs no I love the place and slabs. Friction, smears no gear boldness. It all came from that first solo.
 
I followed nick up an E1 in motorcade, later that same day I lead Todys and followed nick up an E3. I finished the day leading TPS my first E1/(HVS not getting into that). I was ecstatic. The next visit to froggatt I soloed Sunset slab (HVS) lead motorcade and four pebble slab the E3 I had followed nick on. I had pushed my grade so far.
 
I could not believe I an overweight punter had lead E3. This was summer 2010. Early 2011 I was back with one thing on my mind The amazing looking route Browns Eliminate (E2) bold, beautiful and climbs better than it looks. I got the route no problem. 
I had my first proper deck out last year and I decided to take a step back from bold routes and took up doing more sports climbing.
I choose to have a session with Nik Jennings this was a triple 8 wad who was down to earth and just seemed like another normal guy.
 
How could that work? A normal bloke able to climb such high grades.
Nik gave me a confidence I did not know I had and I came so close to red pointing a 7a on my first ever day of trying it.
I have not climbed much trad this year but saturday I climbed 2 E1s (soft and very soft ones) onsight and tried another and they all felt very climbable.
 
So what am I capable of? To be honest I do not know and that excites me. It makes me want to train. Pull hard, work hard.
 
My joke of a goal was to climb 7b by summer next year. I know do not think I am very far away from this. Well not as far as I thought.
 
Psyche is an amazing thing. Take what you can where you can.
 
So that was some random musings.