Monday, 14 May 2012

The font review and now I am back

Font was an amazing week. I had a laugh being tricked and told what to do by Laura and Becci.
Bex on a blue circuit traverse at Isatis
Thurday I went to elephant which was awesome chilling in the heat and falling off the last move of a 6A and 6A+. I may have done a 6B but it did not feel 6B. Espcially not a font 6B.
Laura also on the traverse at Isatis
On the friday we went back to 95.2 I wanted to try a roof traverse again. I got very close to it. I could not work out the very last move so I left it and visitied Cul de Chein as Bex really wanted to see the dog. The amazing boulder which does not look like a dog unlike L'elephant that does actually look like a elephant (inside joke sorry).
I had planned to film me climbing loads of stuff in font but I was like a little child running round climbing on every shape and rock I could find and being too busy to film. Here is a short film of the footage I got. Next trip I will do a proper job.

I also got a bit of footage of laura doing a move she was trying for ages.

I do not believe that I climbed a 6 in font. However I climbed alot of problems in the 5+ range. I climbed about 100 problems through out the week which was really tiring.
I got back to awesome weather on the sunday but I was too tired so instead I had an early doors session at Burbage on bank holiday monday before the rain came. We started at Burbage West where we tested out West Side Story and the nose. I did not get very far on either. We then went to burbage bridge where we tried to climb a 6C. Finally we went to Burbage North where I climbed warmed up climbing around then I got on Lost in France 6A shockingly I flashed it. It just felt right. I also checked out the curse (5+) but fell badly and hurt myself. We moved on to banana fingers area once I healed up and rested.
I got on banana fingers 6A which I have been trying since 2010. I almost got it on the first attempt of the day. It went pretty quickly in the end. I then had another go at the direct and it worked it but wanted to save skin for remergence.
I got on all quiet on the eastern front but did not commit to it properly. The last area we went to was the remergence area. I tried remergence and got much further than I did on my last try. It would of gone but the weather came in and that was that :(

I had a couple of sessions at rokt during the week really uninspired at the moment for that place, however I took my 3 year old nephew and he is improving so fast its great to watch.
Saturday was an early session at Holmfirth a few things on the circuit, added a couple of eliminates in the 6A-6B range tried the fingery 6B+ no progress.

Sunday came and I headed to almscliff. I then warmed up in the brassic conditions. I tried to repeat morrills wall and felt and heard my left middle finger go. I spent the day plodding around spotting james and filming some bits. I tried a steep juggy 6B which would of gone if I could use my left had.

Anyway heres the vid from almscliff.
I am hoping the finger is okay but we will have to see. It is feeling better today so hopefully its not a pulley.

Wednesday, 2 May 2012

Font a story so far

Saturday Rained all day
3.30 am saturday morning my alarm goes off
I hit snooze
3.37 my alarm goes off again. I get up. Knock on laura door tell her its time to get up. I have a shower and get ready
4am we set off.
5.15 we arrive at nottingham grab becci
9 am arrive at folkstone.
7pm arrive at Maisonbleau
drink eat bed

Sunday Rained in the morning then sunny the rest of the day  about 18degC+
We went to Buthier tennis thinking it was buthier canard. could not find the circuits
so just climbed what looked fun did a 5+ in a couple of goes.

Monday
95.2 Sunny temps up to 23degC
did some blues then did a lot of the yellow circuit. Flashed some reds and blues. good laugh lots of climbing. Ended working a hanging lip traverse great fun got most of the moves but tried to end it wrong. Looked it up on Bleau.info and its a 6B+.
Later we tried to go to buthier canard but got rained on.
Spent the night drinking

Tuesday
Isatis 22degC+
Lots of blues  acouple of reds spent some time trying three whites spanked on all three came very close to the 6A and 6B the 5+ felt hard.
Later went to Rocher de Sabot climbed a few yeallows and blues felt tired and feet hurting gave up quickly. Too many kids

Wednesday 14deg ish patchy drizzle.
Bouldered on Neils wall for 30 mins then went to Buthier piscine did some a few orange's and a couple of blacks.
Walked to Canard got spanked on a few things
Took it easy today to preserve skin for a hard day tomorrow

I have not really eaten enough this week not been hungry. Hoping for some decent weight loss as a result. Looking like L'Elephant and Petit Bois tomorrow. Air time of Big Jim? I hope so!!