Monday, 9 April 2012

Sports and Bouldering Improvements

I went to trollers Gill last weekend. It was my first proper session on yorkshire sport. It is a steep crag so not really my style at all. I was with a friend of Nik's I met through twitter and UKB called Rob. He was heading out with his wife and son for the day and I tagged along. I warmed up setting a top rope on a 5 for robs son. After a rest I went to try and onsight a steep 6b+ which is supposidly a warm up for the crag.
The route is a overhanging layback crack. Quite pumpy so a stamina issue could be a issue. Its just steep jug hauling really. I did it with out too many issues onsight I was pretty shocked.
Next up I did laps on a 5 to keen warm. I also did two 7a routes on top rope. One was technical, overhanging and pumpy. The over was steep jug hauling. The steeper one (jim grin) is suppossed to be easier of the two but I got on with the harder one better. Both will go.

Last friday I headed to the depot to enter the last round of the comp. I have previously been there with my mate Tom who is a better climber than me but this round I was on my own so no beta to steal also no one was working the comp problems so I was on my own. This meant I had to work out the moves my self. It forced my to read the problems and work the moves out better.
Previously I have scored 144 and 143 in the other rounds. This time I got 156 so a nice improvement. I am off back to do so I will try get a few more points.

Yesterday I went to holmfirth as it looked like the only place that could possibly be in. I went there with a mate called tom (not the guy I climb with at the depot) and a guy called ben. It was nice to be there with new people. I gave them a tour of a few problems. We were limited as it was really windy and was light drizzle. The crag tend to shelter its self as it curve round a corner so just 20 yards can be completely different conditions.
Tom and Ben ticked the classic like flight attendant, shades, undercut problem, silent running and that annoying font 6A I fail on the first move. I then got them on the crimpy wall problems. They both got attractive wall. We all then turned our attention to Holmeward bound. I showed them how I was trying it. Tom said he thought it was a bit too power full to go at 6C that way. He then found some new beta. There is a small smear above the starting foothold making the first move harder. Then it's pull hard and rock over for glory. After about another 3 goes and hitting the sloper just left of the last hold and coming off, I finally did it. About 12 months of work finally after the new beta I finally climbed a font 6C
Tom then flashed upside down arete and ben got up it pretty quick. I had a couple of goes but was tired from a long session. Tom and ben then tired old lace.

So its been a couple of weeks of progression on the sports climbing and bouldering front. Plus a nice progression on a hard set of comp problems. Great start to the year hope it stays going so well.