Wednesday, 11 January 2012

Deck out with me again

So far this year I have had a few of days out on the grit and a good indoor session.
The first was okay. I went to stanage plantation and got a couple of 5's sorted. I did not get crescent arete. I was struggling to trust my smears in new stiff shoes. Excuses! It was a really good day a little cold but nice to be on rock so early in the year.

Mid week I went to the depot where I entered my first ever climbing comp. Not expecting to get much I surprised my self I flashed the first nine problems. I also flashed several others. I came very close to a couple of others. I definatley feel that I am getting stronger so a bouldering comp seemed a good place to start. I have always been slightly anti comp. I consider climbing as a personal battle. So having to test yourself above others just seemed wrong.
I approached the comp as a personal challenge I worked my way through the problems just to see if I could flash them. This forced me to think about the problems more as I wanted to get them first try. I was happy with my efforts and think I will enter another comp.

Saturday came round eager to get out on rock but the weather was making it hard. After driving around for a while trying a few different crags we ended up at burbage north. I was warming up at the 20ft crack area. I was soloing route 2 a severe when near the top my foot slipped causing me to swing I fell off. I landed on a rock and hurt my hip and ankle. The day was written off for me sadly. I hobbled around and watched my friends climb. So still no banana fingers tick after trying it for 2 years ish if not longer.

Sunday I felt better so I went to holmfirth. It was greasy and drizzling I did some easy problems to warm up and sketched my way up them. I then tried to repeat some harder stuff. I did not do too much but I got back on rock so felt better to be out.

This week I have been doing some exercises at home. I got told to do push ups for font and its helping with my recent pains. I have been doing shoulder exercises to try and strengthen my rotator cuff. It has been aching recently. Nick also pointed out I still gaurd it when I am not thinking about what I am doing 18 months after cuff tear. I have also been doing a bit of finger boarding, pull ups and core strengthening exercises.

Need to get back on the circuits now that is my plan for friday unless I end up meeting a mate.

Sunday, 1 January 2012

2011 Done - here is my review and the plan

So I started January with buying a house and having a car crash also being pretty damned heavy I put my self on a strict low calorie diet to lose weight fast. It worked to a point but the calorie intake was far too low 1200 less than recommended. 
February was all about chorro I got there in okayish shape still coming back from injury. I wanted to get 6b+ this did not happen however I pushed my sports grade to 6b and I had a nice holiday. I met some cool people and got psyched to go back.
March was me getting back on the trad. I was confident of my abilities and I managed to flash an E2 I also onsighted a pump HVS which was not my style. It was a pretty good month plus it had a return of evening climbing which as always a good sign.
April saw my first solo of a multipitch it was christmas curry it felt good. I also got my house together.
May I decked out and lost a lot of psyche I have not got on a route harder than HVS since.
June I turned 25 and I spent time at indoor walls and I got a little stronger.
July I Spent a lot of time indoors trying to get stronger. I also had some coaching sessions with Nik Jennings. I had my first experience of Rubicon and limestone bouldering, my first trip to caley it rained and enjoyed the sun even though the grit lacked friction. It was generally a good month. I pushed my grade and felt stronger.
In August I put up my first new route a 6a/+ on the side of a pillar at new mills torr. The next day I went to horseshoe and managed to do a pulley injury and then I was injured for 6 weeks. I was pretty gutted as I was getting strong. 
In September my finger healed up and I got back on it I was not too weak but I enjoyed my time out on rock. I took it easy when plastic pulling as I wanted to heal up rather than hurt my finger further.
Generally from october till now I have not really done much trad. I have been a little psyched out about it. I think the E1 deck out effected me more than I realised. I have not pushed myself. I trust my gear but I am not going for it. I have been refocussing on bouldering and sports because I like the feeling of pulling hard and also not having to deal with the purity shit of onsight is all that matters.
I have been slowly getting stronger. I think this comes from climbing with different people and different attitudes towards climbing. I had another session with Nik recently to prepare me for my trip to spain in march. He has suggested what I need to do to improve and get ready. This has involved me spending hours on a 30° going from left to right up and down getting pumped out of my  mind. I am seeing gains from it I just need to keep going. One of my key issues is my weight. I have no idea what I weigh at the moment I have not got any weighing scales at my house. I feel pretty heavy with out the finger strength to make up for it.

its time to set goal for the year. My current goals I have myself set are below
UKB  
Sports:
Onsight a 6c
do more than 1 7a or harder

Bouldering:
6C or harder

Trad:
More multipitch this year
solid E1 onsight
Onsight E3

Do a grand day out in the slate quarries in best possible style
Pebble Wall
tick a 7a or harder in costa blanca march
Get in loads of millage in my Font trip
enter a bouldering comp
Visit the slate quarries more than once

UKC
STG End of March:
lead 3x E1
Boulder Font 6B
Climb 6c/+ in the best possible style
7a-7b costa blanca
MTG End of June
RP Mr blue sky horseshoe so I don't have to go back
Get solid at E1
Onsight E2/3
LTG End of 2012
Onsight 7a
No Major injuries

Of these goal some I think i can achieve some I don't most importantly I need to try and get them done.
I got told this the other day and it made me smile and think yup that is a great statement.
I would rather regret something I did do, rather than something I did not do
So that along with if you can't do something smart do something stupid is what I want to try and live to this year. 
My year so far is planned out as this:
January - wall and try and get back on trad.
February - Wall and try and get back on trad.
March - Costa Blanca
April/May - Font, Wales sports and multipitch
June - Peak limestone trad / Pembroke
July - Gogarth / Multipitch lakes/wales
August - Peak lime
September - Spain
October-December - Grit trad/ bouldering

Let the games begin :)


Finally thanks for everyones interest in my blog I am up to 1000 views someone must be interested :D