Friday, 23 December 2011

Circuits circuits and more circuits

Since my last blog i managed to get out on the grit to almscliff and I have had two hard intense indoor sessions.

So starting with Almscliff I went there with some lads from UKB all much better climbers than me but don't mind letting a punter spot them while they work the harder stuff. Plus I get good beta on my problems. 
I got there about 11ish just before Tom. When he arrived we walked up to the warm up area and he ran through some easy stuff to get going. All easy stuff that went in a try or two at most. Next tom showed me pork chop slab (5) which I managed to flash. After this John and Ian arrived. 
The conditions at almscliff were amazing reasonably dry under foot, minimal cow poo, dry rock and perfect friction. So while they warmed up Tom set me on Morrill's wall an almscliff classic 6A my anti style. Tom ran up it to give me the numbers. Then I had a couple of goes. The holds look better than they are but not too bad. To then did it again to show me how. The next attempt I got to the last move and missed the jug by a centimeter or so. I got it next try. 
I was very happy to get it so quick. 10mins 6A classic and not my style at all. I tried a couple more 6A's in this area but every one wanted to move on so I followed them. 
We got on Syrret's next a 6C roof again not my sort of stuff I gave it a go but was not felling it and dropped of twice before the crux. Tom and Ian both did this pretty quick. 
Next up was demon wall roof area I left them playing on the 7's in the roof while I first worked the crucifix (5+) which went second try I think. I then tried pebble wall (6C) with Toms sequence. It is hard but definately doable. I did not get it. I moved on to crucifix arete (6A) which was quite interesting will go next time. The others wanted to move on to another area so again I followed.
They all had a go on an unnamed 6C+ which Tom got after just a few tries and Ian flashed.
At this point I was feeling pretty tired and I started to feel cold. So I just had a go working out flying arete (6A+) with not much look as I could not feel my fingers and feeling the session. 
I called it aday as the sun was going down and celebrated a successful trip to Almscliff with a curry.

Sunday came the conditions were great again but not feeeling tired I looked to go local but with no partner to inspire me I ended up playing GTA. 

Monday afternoon I got a message on Twitter asking if I fancied a session in west yorks. I thought why the hell not. I ended up going to Rokt which for me means lead wall/circuit board. The guy I met up with (Rob) is a bit on a machine. He was also psyched for the circuit board so I had a long session on it with him.  There are several circuit on there that I was working.
The starter circuit is 6a/+ (apparently) I have that wired not done it there and back yet but keep giving it a go. Its 26 moves long and good holds with a harder section in the middle. Good loosener for the others.
The next step up is the brown circuit (6b according to the chart) I had dropped this on the last move and the move before last before.
I had also been doing sections of the yellow a crimpy circuit that is fun as I did not know the grade but I could do bits. I looked the grade on monday and its 7c .. awesome!

So monday I warmed up then did the silver and got to move 15 end of the crux section on the way back. Next I reminded my self of the hardest bits of the brown had a rest then gave it a good burn and got to move 34/36 but then flash pump was too much. I reworked the end to get the moves to get them wired. I had a rest and got it. 
Up next was getting further on the yellow circuit. I am currently failing on 1-4. On my previous attempts I could link from 3 to 7. I spent some time getting this wired so it felt easy and gave me an opportunity to work out move 8. I got this then struggled to get nine bit more work and I got it. I even managed to touch hold 10. I was pretty happy with this. I then worked further on and managed to get the moves up to the rest and then on to move 27. 27-28 was a bit of an issue. 
Rob was working the yellow circuit also which was good to watch his way of doing the moves. The only issue is he is doing yellow with only white screw ons for feet and not taking the hands off rest. He reckons it deserves 8a that way. He dropped it on move 34 of 35 6/7 times on the night (last hard move).

After I had worked the yellow i thought I would try the next circuit up from the brown which is the red (6c - 26 moves). First attempt I got to move 9 I got this far 3 times but I was really struggling and felling tired. I rested up and did a couple of burns on the silver circuit and brown circuit to finish me off. Feeling the session and thinking one last burn I got told the time it was 10pm and kick out time. I had been on the circuit board for best part of 4.5 hours.
Went home content and tired

Wednesday came and not feeling overly strong with minimal partner option I headed to Rokt again and got back on the circuit board. After warming up I did the silver then the brown to warm up. 
This time I got on the red next. I managed to get to move 16 this time. pretty happy with my progress I worked the end and got all the moves. I rested and gave it a burn I got to move 18 with 19 being a hand off rest. I got back on straight away and linked to the end. So it will go with just a little more work getting the feet and sequence wired. 
I decided to get on the yellow again I gave it a burn from 3 and 4 again and this time I managed to get to 10 first attempt. I rested then I gave it a burn again getting to move 12 this time. Nice to add in two more moves and if I can link 12-13 I will be able to link from 3-17 which will be nice progress. I also worked the end and manage to get move 28 this time and only reason I did not get 29 was I was felling tired from the session.
I again finished myself off with a burn on silver and brown. 
Again feeling tired and worked I went home content. 

The next day I realised why I did not feel great the morning of the prior day as I have picked up a cold. Which is worse today. Just in time for christmas.

So december has been about progression in my ability and I feel it is getting there. 

here is a vid from Almscliff:

Tuesday, 13 December 2011

The indoor report + vid

I have been doing quite a bit of indoor climbing which is pretty dull to wright about so to summaries. I have been splitting my time between Rokt, Depot and The works.

At Rokt I am mainly working the circuit board trying to break down the problems to manageable bits. Or desperately trying to link in some cases. There is a 6a/+ (my arse) circuit which took two sessions to link.
The next circuit up is 6b (maybe not my style). I have done this in two bits 1-28 and 26-36 with getting straight back on after the fall. I have an issue with move 19 which is I forget the feet for this move. So if I make it pass it takes every thing out of me or I fall there. I am smooth up to this point and 28 is an awkward move as I find the feet to be quite blind.
There is also a 7b circuit which I am breaking down I am not strong enough for 1-4 at the moment I can link 4-8 with move 9 being a stopper. Then I struggle on move 10 but can now link 12-16/17 with 18 being a crux for me a bit powerful. I am getting it will be nice to break it down and at least get all the moves in isolation.

The Depot I am working wood, purple and reds at the moment. I have completed most of the purples with a couple I will get first try when fresh. The wood circuit is going down nicely over two session I have just a couple of problems left. The reds are hard. I have done one I think but they take some serious work its a good test for me.

The works I am on the purple circuit mainly which is nice as it gives me an opportunity to flash and work stuff on the circuit as it a very broad grade range (6A-6B+) I am down to my last few so I guess I will have to get on the blue or wasp circuit next.

Outdoors has been pretty grim of late. the weather is crapping out big style. However I got out to holmfirth yesterday it was soaked. I managed to repeat a few problems but nothing new. I will get more done later here is a video I through together to test out my new camera:



I tried and did a few more problems but this was just a quick local circuit as I have not been up in a while.
I enjoyed it despite the conditions.

Thursday, 8 December 2011

Trad this weekend?

I was asked why I am not blogging about trad simply because am not doing any.
so here we go:
Last night I went to the works again with Alex and I met up with bex. Another good session. I have almost the entire purple circuit now and I am after some new challenges. I am getting stronger and my technique is coming along as well. I need to work on my fitness and strength.
I got in another 3 hours at the works and felt I could of done more

Also suppose I should explain the omelette incident. Well I thought I would experiment. I have never made an omelette before and I was not sure how to exactly. I thought I would try to guess what you do so I did not reading up on how to make an omelette.
I made the mix but then cooked too much mixture at a too low heat. The mix was also just completely wrong.
The parts of the omelette that looked like bad scrambled egg were okay. but the part that kind of looked like and omelette was not cooked in the middle and I felt very ill after eating it.


Attempt number too was a success after some advice from Hardon. It Was Edible and I don't feel ill. 

Sunday, 4 December 2011

no psyche rest to psyche

Since coming back from chorro I have been lacking psyche majorly. I Decided to take a couple of weeks off indoor climbing and a while off of blogging two. Chorro was very psychically and mentally draining. The bad weather combined with illness, skin issues and not pushing my grade wore me down.
I just did not want to climb so I had a couple of weeks to gather my thoughts. The first week I headed to the works. This is definitely my favourite indoor wall. Its in sheff but it is worth the long drive. I went there on the Friday night then I went to the peak on the saturday but the weather was grim we hid in outside for the crags to dry we then hit burbage north only to be faced with the wind blowing rain straight at the crag. I then started to not feel well again. We tried lawrencefield which was surprisingly dry. I started to feel really ill so went back to hathersage for a bit and left nick and H to climb.
When I got back I found H on the route and Nick wearing my harness. I guess he forgot his again. I left them to climb routes while I just watched it was freezing and got colder as time went on. I soloed a VD and we called it a day.
So this week I just avoided people for most of the week just spent time at mine doing some pull ups, hanging off my fingerboard and doing house work.

Friday was the christmas meal and I got smashed. I was drunk pretty early apparently I was really talkative and babling. I sobered up a bit when the party got back to mine and then left them all drinking while I went to bed.

I woke up to the remnants the morning after. Sick on the carpet with a guy spooning my bin (with sick in it) 4 people in a room with one guy using a towel for a roll mat even though there was a roll mat down stairs ..

Feeling worse for wear I did what I normally do. Started to tidy up took photos and played some music. Metal seemed to soothe the hangover. Everyone came round and we watched a film while people sobered up enough to drive home. Nice morning after. When everyone left I tidied up and settled in to watching TV I had do a load of pull ups as I kept walking past my bar. So I was feeling feeble I was also frail from the night before so just sacked the day of and had a nap. I woke up 6 hours later refreshed but it was too late to do anything so MOTD and back to bed.

Today I had the urge to get climbing not having climbed at all for 7 days I was keen to get on something. I frantically messaged people. But to no avail so thought I would try book a coaching session with Nik Jennings fortunately he had no plans so I got a session in with him this afternoon. He set me targets and put me through a hellish session to which my core ached for hours after.
The coaching has brought back my psyche I was feeling fresh before the session I now know what I have to do. I want my 7 I now have 3 months to get ready. I just need to prepare for the next trip and be solid for when I go.

I will keep blogging for regular updates on my progress. If people want. I have noticed an increase in traffic on this blog. Not sure if thats a good thing but it helps me focus on the highs and lows