Monday, 21 November 2011

The review and the tick list

So for any of you that have been following my blog you will know my goal for chorro were aspirational. I was wanting to push my grade and climb hard. well you will know the hardest thing I climbed out there was a 6b+. This was not my goal! yes the 6b+ was onsight which is the hardest sports climb I have done but it was not my goal I wanted more.
I wanted a 7 I at least wanted a 6c.
So the first day I got there and climbed on limestone for the first time in a while. My regular(ish) trips to rubicon and peak sport kept me with an idea of the rock. I got there and fired out some easy routes on the first day.
The second day I fired out a 6b onsight which felt good then I got on a 7a and had an awesome blast at it doing every move on top rope. The light went so I did not get another go that day. I never went back (bollox, fail!)
Next day I got on a 7a and it did not fell nice and it rained. Following day I got a 6c+ on toprope really fast. But it tore my fingers apart.
I did not get on anything hard after this due to a combination of being at a bad crag and weather.

I am now pissed off disappointed and needing to work my arse off harder between now and march.

My tick list was as follows:
Redpoints attempts
Oceano gris 7a Frontalas - Had a go at it did not fell right
Arabesque 7a Arabe - I should have done this. I got all the moves on top rope but did not go back. for a few reasons
La Ley Del Cateto 6c+ Las Encantadas - did not try looked good but ran out of skin/time
No Puedo Controlarme 6c+ Las Encantadas - did all the moves fast but absolutely trashed my fingers in the process.
Redders 7a Las Encantadas - looked awesome but was in too much pain when there and felt bad dragging people up there with nothing else to do
Madriles 7a Los Cotos - The base of the crag was overgrown and hard to find routes complete psyche killer.
Cafe Bonk 7a+ Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Si Te Caes Pega Una Voz 6c Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Guettero Del Abismo 7a Los cotos - Los Cotos

Onsight attempts
Luna 6a+ Frontales - did not try
Stanage girls 6a+ frontales - did not try
Gabi 6a frontales - did not try
Amtrax 6a frontales - did not want to multipitch when out there
Welcome to el chorro 5+ frontales - did not go to this area
Checkout 6b+ frontales- did not go to this area
valentines day 6a Frontales - did not want to multipitch
Bladerunner 6a Arabe - Tick awesome
Face to flake 6b arabe - Tick onsight
Chilona 6a+ arabe - did not want to multipitch
Nombro Propia 6a Las Encantadas - Tick onsight
Bohem destrell 6a+ Las Encantadas - did not finish over polished, shit and badly bolted.
The Rib 6a+ Las Encantadas - tick
Atenea 4+ Las Encantadas  - tick
Program Genocida 6b Las Encantadas - more like 6b+ lots of lead falls then rained before I could finish
Berriche De Chinche 6b Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Number one 4+ Los Cotos - Tick
Bruner and the Bruna 6b Los Cotos - Los Cotos
The policeman stole my wallet 6b Los cotos - Los Cotos
El Viajero Amable 6b+ Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Exodo 6a+ Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Hay Un Guarillo Enla Tapia 6a+ Makinodromo - did not go
Salto Del Gato I 6b Makinodromo - Did not go
Salto Del Gato II 6b+ Makinodromo - Did not go

What I actually did:
7a
1xtop rope dog
1xground up DNF
6c+
1xtop rope dog
6c
did not try
6b+
1xLead onsight
6b
1xLead onsight
6a+
1x onisght
1xredpoint setting draws after previous failing lead it onsight the year before
6a
3x onsight
5+
2xonsight
5
3xonsight
4+
1xonsight
4
1xonsight

So its a long list but not much hard stuff. I am really disappointed in my trip.

Saturday, 19 November 2011

Day 8 6a+ rain and book reading

Okay so today was basically a write off. It started okay with cloudy weather afte breakfast I went up to Las Encantadas and did a 6a + I tried last time but dogged it. This time I ran up it setting the draws Brian top roped it just in time for the rain to come and write the day off. The rain lasted most of the day stopping at around 3pm. We headed back up to encantadas to try get vicky up a 6b but it was soaked still and then started to rain again.

Tick of the day goes to me with a red point (technically) of a 6a+ Crisis de Ident

So looking at my tick list it is rather dis appointing I will go into more of that tomorrow when I am back home I will also go throught my pre trip tick list.

Friday, 18 November 2011

Day 7 6a+ onsight rain and illness


So today started badly with me feeling pretty ill (I did not even drink last night so it was not that .. well I just had two) and it was raining heavy enough to stop us climbing.
The rain stopped about 9.30 so we waited till 10.30 ish and headed out to Las Encatadas (above) I warmed up by onsighting the rib (6a+) then began to not feel very well so I headed back to the olive branch for a rest with the plan to return to the crag once I felt better. Sadly just as I started to feel better it started to rain, then it got heavier so today is/was a write off.
Not much to say.

No one climbed much so tick of the day goes to me and Vix with an onsight of the Rib at 6a+ to warm up.

Thursday, 17 November 2011

Day 6 6b+ onsight !!!

Today we hit Los Cotos today much to Chris' disapproval.
Anyway
I warmed up on Number one 4+ onsight and moved onto a 6b+ Vix had a go first up could not work out the last move and after a little bit of thinking I managed to get the bastard onsight.

The 6b+ was a 5+ to a hard top few moves. The crux invovled hard pulling on tiny holds and outside edging on nothing. Awesome moves. Satisfied I decided to look at a 6c I had been eyeing up in the guide book but sadly the local undergrowth had taken back the base of the crag. I decided to get a load of routes in. I tried to onsight a 6a and messed the crux reading it wrong gave up due to pain in my feet.

I went onto onsight 3 more 5's nice to get a few ticks in.

Tick of the day goes to me !!!! As I onsighted a Montgroni Free 6b+ onsight (vix did it first RP with my beta)

Wednesday, 16 November 2011

day 5 rest day

Today I have achieve absolutely nowt.
I decided to give today a miss at my fingers are completely trashed.

Chris is aid soloing Africa as we speak (or escaping off)
Everyone else headed to Los cotos only to be turned away by the gaurds from the Camino Del rey (not even the tunnels).
I am realxing reading a book trying to grow skin.

Tuesday, 15 November 2011

Day 4 6a, sore fingers and blown onsights

Today was a projecting day.
I started off heading to encontadas for work a 6c+ and for chris to work a 7a. Chris worked his 7a for a while then vix hauled up and set a top rope of the 6c+ she had a quick play but felt confused so sent me up. I worked the route doing all the moves in isolation. Chris then had a hard session on his and linked from the start to mid height.
I got back on mine and linked to about half height and then worked the top again (desperate). The holds were all sharp and small. My fingers were absolutely trashed by the time I got down. I realised I did not have enough in me to give it another burn so called it a day for that one.
We headed to the other side of the crag and I tried to onsight a hard 6b but went off route and rested on the rope. A bit puzzled and with rain falling I called it a day and gave up.
The rain passed quickly so Vix lead a 6a I then also lead it. With my finger tips gone I called it a day. Vix then onishgted a 6a+ with a hard to read crux nice one!

Tick of the day goes to JP for his first 6a blobby right. Nice one on the grade push JP!

Monday, 14 November 2011

Day 3 5+, shutdown and rain

Today we headed to frontales with epic eagerness to get on oceano gris with Vix.
We warmed up onsighting a hard 5+ then we had a go at Oceano gris.
I went first trying to go bolt to bolt. The onsight attempt did not last long then working the route got hard and it started to rain.
The start seemed to be the crux. I worked it for 10 mins trying to move past the first bolt with not much luck.Vix went up same issue. I then went back and made it to the second bolt then again could of worked the move. I needed a lot more time to work to work it, more than this trip will allow. It's one to go back for when stronger. So its off the tick list for the wrong reason :(
The rain got alot worse so I stripped the draws to come back later.

No real ticks of note. so I geuss mine and vix's ascent of putiferio (fr5+) gets it?

Sunday, 13 November 2011

Day 2 6b onsight and hangover

Felt crap this morning still do. I perked up abit after A lovely fry up from The olive branch.
Today we hit Arabe. Nice crag with some friendly angles. I was climbing with vicky today which is always good as she it also a slab fiend.
We started with vix onsighing a 5+ setting the draws I lead it onsight also. Once we had done this feeling fresh we decided to go to sector arabesque. A picturesque area at the top of the arab steps.
I then onsighted a 6a called blade runner. Fantastic route deserves 3stars. sustained lay backing on good feet.
Next up feeling confident (maybe alittle over confirent) I tried to onsight a 6b to my surprise I did it. :) Vix also onsighted this. The comment vix made was "good to see its day two and we are on it already".
I had sent Andy (biscuit from UKC) a e-mails saying I was climbing at arabe if he wanted to join me. Strangely he did (hes not met me before). His current goal is to onsight a 7a. so I hauled up arabesque a 7a I had been looking at before I came after I was recommended it.
I top roped the route first and did all the moves and made several long links. It was within my ability. Now I have to decide if I want to project it? Cause it will go but I will need another visit at least.
I belayed Andy on arabesque While Vicky went off to climb with a friend of Andy's called Silvia. Vix went on to climb a 6a and a 6b+ both onsight well done!!

So again tick of the day goes to Vix for here ascent of El Canalillo de la mari 6b+ onsight!

Saturday, 12 November 2011

Day 1 6a onsight

today started with an alarm clock making an evil noise at 2.55am I breif considered sacking it off and getting a longer sleep. Then it hit me its TIME! I then crawled my fat arse out of bed and went down stairs. IU knocked on Vix's room door to a response of I am up!
Like a scene from shawn of the dead I went downstairs to wake Jonny up who was fresh faced looking like he was a new man (holiday excitement?).
Chris joined us and we stuck got ready a lulled tired group waiting for the arrival of JP and the lift to the airport. Around 3.30am we headed out on the hour long journey to Liverpool.
We got the airport at 4.30 checked in and travelled through to the duty free area where me and vix got a full English and I had a beer.
The flight was good and the train journey was fine after an arguement over the platform the train left from (me and JP were right). We eventually got to the olive branch around 2pm then a mad dash to the crag was enjoyed.
I got there keen as ever and got on lead first and onsighted a 4+ letting Brian, Tom, JP and Jonny lead up on my draws.
Next I set the draws in a 6a onsight again. Very high first bolt! nice little route took a bit of reading.
Later I got on a so called 6a+ absolutely no idea how that goes felt nails for 6a+ anyway I tried the magic sling trick and managed to get my gear back

Tick of the day went to vix who red pointed a 6b (formally 6c) looked nails. I am trying to save it for a flash.

Tomorrow am meeting up with Biscuit from UKC/B so will be interesting to see what happens

Friday, 11 November 2011

It's here tomorrow

So it here I am about to head off to the amazing El chorro to stay at the olive branch (blatant plug).
Since my last blog well.
Last week involved:
Tuesday: climbing works 3 hours of getting the shit kicked out of me by the purple circuit I did 90% of it. Some flashed some worked. The purple circuit is 6A-6B+ (or V3-V5 for the heathens) which is good to be flashing many of the low to mid grade ones. I do love the works it’s a drive! But it is worth it.
Wednesday: Rokt. I took quite a few lobs off the lead wall above the bolt. I also worked some circuits on the new board. I also did some new problems in the slab room before it got too sweaty. I was tired so the session was not too intense. I did manage 3 hours.
Sunday: I went to Pule and re did flying buttress again for the 9/10 time (at least) to let Laura try a harder climb. I then set her on Amen a very good v diff with a committing move off of a ledge. Due to poor gear she backed off. I then sent her up a severe which after a think she flew up. The light went earlier than expected so we called it a day.

This week has involved:
A rest week. This has been an opportunity to grow skin, let muscle build and not risk injury. I had one session at the depot on Wednesday. They had just put up a new wooden circuit. This tends to be crimpy but skin friendly in comparison to resin holds. The circuit was graded V3-V5. I felt it was pretty accurate with most of the problems feeling V4 and were done in an attempt or two. Some of them shut me down and one took about 819 attempts to finally get it.
The problem started on a wide finger jug at the base of a big bulge. The two simple technical hand moves heading left before a large move to a big slopey hold. You match the hold. Left hand on pulling on the slopey bit and right had guppy on the right hand end. My sequence was then to cut loose and pull my left foot high to a smooth okay foot hold then a big move to a small hold for my left then a balancey move to get your right hand in the good small finger jug above. It’s then all over just sort your feet and step up for the top hold and match.
I was failing on the move off of the big sloper. Persistence paid off and resting worked too.
Overall I had a great session at the depot but it is still not my favourite venue and its hindered by the traffic. But it is worth the journey.

Now I am ready for Chorro. My finger tips are red, bruised and sore. But I am working them with moisturiser and sanding dead skin. I am fitter than I have ever been. I am stronger than I have ever been. I am ready. Let’s get this shit into gear. I have a tick list but I am keeping it quiet. After the trip I will post on here what it was and how I did. The list is pretty ambitious to say the least.

Also I will do some regular blogs while out there and add in photos. Bring on the pain, frustration and joy you get from climbing!!